: Trad climbing nuts Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. Basically, it can make one good placement out of two lousy ones! Mar 22, 2021 · Yes, all the language of trad climbing is vaguely sexual, so if you haven’t cracked any jokes yet — er, go nuts. Initially made from actual machine nuts with the internal thread drilled out, they have undergone several stages of development in the last few decades, resulting in the wonderful colour-coded super-strong designs we have today. This article teaches you how to place stoppers and cams. Explore our nut sets and stoppers from Kouba including micros, hexes, brass nuts and offsets for any crack or break. Explore trad climbing gear and protection for your trad rack including nuts, cams, hexes and abalaks ready for your next mountain adventure or chilled day at the crag. Or the smaller rack they intend to bring up a specific climb. They’re a single piece of metal slung with a sturdy wire and feature no moving parts. May 26, 2024 · Traditional climbing, or trad climbing, is a style of rock climbing that involves placing removable protection gear into cracks and features in the rock as the climber ascends. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. We have Jan 24, 2023 · Trad climbing involves a wide array of gear, including nuts, hexes, cams, Big Bros, and more, to ensure climbers stay safe. Master the 5 Pillars of bomber placements and get our printable pocket card for the crag. Up until about a month ago I had to borrow other people's gear if I wanted to use cams. Friends Cams are reliable and essential for certain types of cracks where nuts won’t work. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. Jan 6, 2020 · Comparing these options, we'd say the Peenuts are a better all-around trad climbing nut, while the DMM HB Brass Offset is best for aid climbing and the tiniest, trickiest to protect traditionally protected routes. We tested each through a wide range of fissures, scar pins, parallel-sided cracks, around blocks, and the like. Learn Mastering Gear Placements: Cams, Nuts, and Slings in Trad Climbing. But don’t underestimate the benefits of their counterpart: the nut. Remember to check out our selection Trad Climbing Gear > Ball Nuts This 'ball nuts' article is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. I'm still pretty new at trad climbing and I was a hex sceptic until the other day - I went climbing somewhere different to my usual haunt - a rather exposed cliff where the erosion had scooped out the most marvellous hex placements - absolutely bomber! Jan 22, 2010 · When I first started trad climbing all I could afford were nuts, hexes, and tricams. I want to get some gear so I have something to contribute, as well as open up my horizons to more routes other than sport. See full list on outdoorrackbuilder. Traditional Routes follow Cracks and Slabs. Mar 8, 2017 · Passive protection devices—nuts / stoppers, hexes, and tricams— form the basis of any trad climber’s gear rack. Anyone who wants to do traditional rock climbing needs a few things: Nov 8, 2024 · Whether you want to fine-tune gear placement, anchors, or crush your first multi-pitch, this comprehensive guide to trad climbing has it all. Here’s what you need to know about trad gear and tips to build your first trad climbing rack. The name comes from the their development. Free shipping on many items | Browse your favorite brands | affordable prices. Jul 28, 2022 · The Gear You Need for Trad Climbing That’s a lot of gear! Traditional or “Trad” climbing involves placing your own protection as you climb. However, I'm a broke high schooler, so I can't really afford cams, and I don't want to get too invested in it. They’re easy to use and contract to fit a variety of crack sizes. So my question is, can you climb trad with only nuts and Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. But even today, it can be a good tool for those times when you need a multi directional placement and are low on cams, or want to preserve them for further up the pitch. Climbing Nuts 101 will help you make that decision when you're getting your first gear for trad climbing. This Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. In today's gear show we catch up with ‪@WildCountryClimbing‬ athlete James Pearson to find out exactly what are his go-to pieces of equipment on his trad rack . In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. In Choosing Climbing Nuts, Paul offers some advice on what type to choose and how to rack them. Apr 14, 2025 · Best Climbing Nuts Buyer’s Guide Hey fellow rock scramblers and vertical adventurers, So, you’re in the market for some shiny new climbing nuts, eh? Well, let me guide you through the twisted maze of options with some pearls of wisdom (and humor) from my own rock-bottomed experience. Affordable active and passive trad gear from Kouba Climbing. Trad climbers use the term rack frequently. It Climbing nuts, also known as wires, rocks or stoppers are thin wedges of metal that are slotted into constrictions in cracks to provide protection when climbing traditionally outdoors. They are cheap, strong, durable and relatively easy to use. Apr 3, 2025 · Buying used climbing gear? Here are the red flags to look for and tips for ensuring the gear you buy is safe. It's for this reason that they So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. The backbone of every trad rack. We really hope you find it useful. And I really love them nuts. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. Nuts can wiggle out, slings can lift off and cams can walk out of position. Different alloy is used for each size - smaller Wallnuts are made from a harder alloy to prevent shearing, while larger sizes are softer so they can bite into placements. Nuts, cams, and slings are commonly used trad climbing protection. My question is, if I’ve used all my cams earlier on a climb. Rocks are built with durable 6064 aluminum and a stainless steel cable, ensuring decades of dependable use. They are made of a flexible wire which is threaded through a hard 'nut' of metal. In short, trad climbing, more formally known as traditional climbing, is a form of rock climbing that requires placing your own gear for protection, rather than solely relying on pre-placed bolts. Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. Their two distinct orientations include one that is offset and the other that's less tapered and more traditionally shaped, which together create a ton a versatility Apr 27, 2022 · This article originally appeared in Climbing in 2013. Despite their simple appearance, Wallnuts are highly featured pieces of climbing hardware. As the first form of leader placed protection was a stone pebble in a crack on Cloggy in North Wales. Compared to cams, they’re lighter and considerably cheaper, so it makes a lot of sense to have a good set of nuts clipped to your climbing harness, especially for longer routes. There are also tricams, hexes big bros, and ball nuts but they are only to be used depending on the location of the climb. Since trad is often learned by climbing second, you won’t need an extensive rack initially, but make sure you have a Nut Key clipped to your harness with a loop sling for removing gear. May 29, 2020 · New to trad climbing? Our Beginner's Guide to Trad Climbing breaks down everything you need to know to get started trad climbing today. As early as the 1920s, British climbers had carried pebbles in the pockets of their knickers, slotting these stones into wide spots in cracks and tying them off—with scary-looking hemp cord—for pro. The sling holds the carabiner in Nuts Buying Guide Double Cap Read Time - 9 minutes May 2020 Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. Here are some things to consider: Trad Gear is Less Reliable than Sport Climbing Bolts It's generally safe to fall at any time on a bolted sport route, whether indoors or at the crag. Build bomber anchors, boost confidence & climb safer. Aug 22, 2024 · These classic nuts should be the backbone of any trad climber’s rack. This is a pretty gear-intensive endeavor, and some of what you carry comes down to personal choice Sep 12, 2024 · A set of 10 to 12 nuts will be sufficient for your first experiences. Whatever you call them, these wedges of metal are a key element in every trad climber’s protection system. These . Nuts or wires, rocks or stoppers. Instead of clipping bolts, you are looking for natural features, cracks, or constrictions to place traditional climbing equipment like nuts and cams. Nov 18, 2016 · The trickiest—and most important—parts of multi-pitch trad climbing are placing solid gear and building safe anchors fast. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbing. But unlike cams, which expand into gaps in the rock and Get the best deals on Climbing & Caving Nuts/ Rocks when you shop the largest online selection at eBay. But really, once you’re ready to start buying gear, your first investment ought to be a set of nuts. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than A large selection of nuts for a long trad route in Morrocco Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. ly/3clZ1pcAt last! I’ve been waiting to do Trad climbing nuts and passive protection to build up your trad rack. I climb mostly in Utah in rock canyon and Ibex with the occasional moab trip. B… How do climbers protect a fall with our little wired pieces of metal? In this episode I cover the complete basics of nut placement and the thought process be A lot of gear is needed for trad climbing: cams, nuts Get tips and tricks for your first trad climbing equipment! Nov 14, 2019 · Trad and Sport are forms of both Free Climbing and Lead Climbing Trad Climbing is an older style of climbing, focusing on adventure. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. Nuts are passive protection devices, meaning that their holding power comes from their wedge shapes, cleverly placed in Feb 2, 2024 · Our Runner Ups for the Best Climbing Nuts for Trad Climbing While these nuts didn’t quite make the cut into the favorite’s position, they are still recommended by many trad climbers as well as having positive reviews from many experts. We used each while ascending wind-blown alpine Getting into leading trad routes? Learn how to choose types of passive protection, such as chocks, nuts and hexes. 5 and 5. Before the nut there was… Climbing nutcraft evolved in Great Britain about a half century ago, but its roots go back even further. But for aid, hard-to-protect free climbs, and big wall routes, they are amazing. Trad uses removable protection like cams, nuts, and Jan 6, 2020 · The Alloy Offset from DMM is our review team's favorite overall nut for all-around trad climbing because of their versatility and how perfect they are where most other pieces of passive protection or cams are adequate at best. Learn how to place trad gear, build trad anchors, climb a multi pitch, belay in guide mode and much more. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Learning how to place trad gear is an essential skill as you progress as a climber. That being said, if you’re getting your first rack together In addition to the gear you use in an indoor wall or at a sport crag, you'll need some more specialist kit to climb a trad route. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango From cams to carabiners, nuts to nut tools, there are so many options for traditional climbing gear that it’s hard to know where to begin. This article explains all. Trad Climbing Essential Gear: A climbing harness filled up with trad climbing gear, including nuts, cams, locking carabiners and slings. All of our testers love the “ scopes ” on either side of this nut. Learn to trad climb. Learn to place trad nuts like a pro with this AMGA-based guide. com Jul 24, 2025 · They're an essential part of any climber's trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There's many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you're going to buy. These will give you a good range of sizes. The sling comes in different sizes to help with rope management and awkward rock protection placements. This is in contrast to sport climbing, where you rely on What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. Trying to master my gear placement though. ly/3vhJwabOr buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! http://bit. Sport climbs ascend Roofs and Vertical walls. Climbing nuts exert very little outwards force on the rock, unlike cams. Sep 8, 2022 · Rock climbing nuts may not provide the same level of versatile, multi-directional protection as cams, but they are still essential gear for any trad climber. While cams are often easier to place and clean, nuts are much cheaper and will vastly increase your total possible gear placements. Shop for Nuts at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. 7). May 21, 2020 · Here, we will give a short list of trad climbing essentials, and then offer our simplified buyers guide to traditional rock climbing gear. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. Now, many different climbing brands offer a set of nuts with steel cables that fit cracks all the way from a laser-cut seam to a full on hand crack. Sport climbing is designed to push the athletic envelope of the sport. Most of the force is transferred in the direction it is being pulled (in most cases, down and slightly outwards from the rock). Ball nuts are a seldom used type of climbing gear which offer protection in thin cracks, filling the void where even the smallest cams are too big to fit. When many people start trad climbing, cams become their new best friend. Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. There are various types of nuts available by many brands in all sorts of colours, shapes and sizes. Also see some examples of gear-racking options. I'm a sport climber, but a couple of my climbing buddies will only do trad. Effectively a metal wedge on a wire sling, these pieces of protection are the bread and butter of keeping climbers safe when they are trad climbing. Jun 6, 2021 · Rigging two opposed stoppers/nuts in a vertical crack it's kind of an old-school trick, which dates back to the Paleolithic era before cams were invented. Get tips on what cams, nuts and other gear to take rock climbing and how to organize it all. Oct 18, 2021 · Climbing nuts are the foundation of most Trad racks and were the first pieces used in modern Trad. Free UK delivery for orders over £60 | Buy climbing equipment online from Sgùrr Shop. Wild Country also colour codes the nuts, making for easy size identification. While they are high-grade nuts and have many positive features, they don’t quite measure up to the DMM Wallnut and Offset. com. They are cheap, light and durable. At these prices, double up on the mid-sizes so you can always have the right nut on hand when climbing those long pitches. However, if the same attitude is applied to trad climbing, you'll soon get injured. A trad climber’s trad rack can be their entire collection of trad gear they’ve collected over the years. Quickdraws Trad quickdraws connect rock protection to the rope. Aug 8, 2022 · This article originally appeared in our print magazine in 2013. What is stopping be from using a nut on a horizontal for at least some pro. True So here's the situation. The bottom carabiner is coloured to help differentiate it to the top carabiner. This equipment is also called protection, or “pro,” because it protects you from hitting the ground in a fall. Very overwhelmed on where to start. This is caused by movements in the rope as you climb May 31, 2020 · Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! http://bit. Nuts are the staple of any trad or aid rack as they provide solid protection when placed correctly. Click to advance! Jan 31, 2023 · Trad rack is a term used by climbers to describe the collection of equipment they use for trad climbing. Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten. May 17, 2024 · What you really need to know, and buy, to start trad climbing. TRADITIONAL CLIMBING, ALSO CALLED TRAD CLIMBING OR JUST “TRAD,” is a particular style of roped climbing that involves placing your own protective equipment as you move up a climb, then removing it when you’re done. Building your first trad rack made simple and easy. Jan 6, 2020 · This does mean they aren't a great nut for everyday trad climbing as their thinner cables are more prone to kinking, and the heads will get beat up quicker. To put it bluntly, choosing the best climbing nuts can feel like being halfway up a pitch only to realize Nuts, Rocks and Wires are generic names for a type of leader place protection for rock climbing. Thoughts?? Oct 28, 2016 · From cams to nuts to hexes, learn the basics of trad gear with tips for buying your first rack. May 1, 2022 · On the other hand, trad racks for lead climbing consist of quickdraws, runners and slings for clipping pro and building anchors, and an assortment of protection devices (cams, nuts, hexes, and so on), a cleaning tool, and more. Larger Wallnuts feature h Apr 14, 2021 · So, looking at these estimates above, we are looking at $745 for a basic trad climbing rack with a set of nuts, a handful of the most used cams, a safe number of alpine draws and some equipment to build anchors and a nut tool. These pieces are relatively inexpensive because they feature no moving parts. The top carabiner is loosely connected to the adjoining sling to allow for movement without dislodging the nut.

Trad climbing nuts. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes.